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Inside LI’s own ‘Point Break’ where brave, winter surfers catch waves with snow on the ground: ‘This can kill you’

inside-li’s-own-‘point-break’-where-brave,-winter-surfers-catch-waves-with-snow-on-the-ground:-‘this-can-kill-you’
Inside LI’s own ‘Point Break’ where brave, winter surfers catch waves with snow on the ground: ‘This can kill you’

It’s “Point Break” on Montauk Point.

That’s where homegrown Long Island thrill seekers summoning their best Patrick Swayze impersonations, hit the ferocious Atlantic in the winter months for an ultimate — and perilous — surf in nearly subzero temps.

“I mean, this can kill you,” longtime winter surfer Dr. John Kavanaugh, sporting shoulder-length hair and a goatee, told The Post just before catching waves in windy, 26-degree weather at Ditch Plains in Montauk Friday.

Man in fur coat with surfboard and dog in front of a lighthouse.

Dr. John Kavanaugh is one of many Long Islanders who get a rush from surfing in the winter. Dennis A. Clark

“There are days out there where there are ice blocks … some people say ‘you guys are crazy.’

“They think we’re nuts.”

The East Hampton chiropractor isn’t the only one catching curls with snow on the sand.

A band of about a dozen others were riding crisp waves off Montauk’s bluffs on a Wednesday afternoon last month.

“When the waves are good, people come. Like a really good Saturday, it will get crowded,” Kavanaugh, 60, said of the traditional summer hotspot.

“… now it will get crowded in the winter,” added the Plainview native, who’s been at it for decades.

A new wave

Dr. John Kavanaugh said winter surfing on Long Island attracts a very white collar crowd nowadays.

Kavanaugh said winter surfing on Long Island attracts a very white collar crowd nowadays. Dennis A. Clark

The scene in the dangerously cold ocean waters has shifted from merely daredevils and the “Jeff Spicoli” crowd to more mainstream.

“Surfing is no longer just the bums, the high school dropouts,” joked Kavanaugh, whose Spuds MacKenzie-like pooch, Ozzie, joins him at the beach. “Now it’s everybody, we’re all doctors and lawyers now.”

“It’s been getting busier with the work from home stuff … a lot of finance guys are out here year-round,” said Kavanaugh, who hit the water Friday afternoon before heading back to his practice.

Having the beaches less touristy and more open in the cold season is a nice touch, but the regulars, he added, are used to surfing around the extra bodies like they’re buoys.

There’s also a special camaraderie among salt-of-the-earth locals who brave the elements when Montauk gets sleepy in the winter.

A man in a wetsuit grilling sausages on a beach.

Getting in the frigid water can be fatal, warns Kavanaugh. Dennis A. Clark

Dr. Kavanaugh makes toasty fire pits to keep warm on the beach.

Kavanaugh makes toasty fire pits to keep warm on the beach. Dennis A. Clark

Kavanaugh does his best portrayal of “Bodhi,” bringing a special hollowed-out log he turns into a fire pit to speahead cookouts with his compadres to keep warm on the beach — as things quickly turns into party town USA.

“We celebrate,” he said. “Big fires — the way to go. “Set up lots of cooking at the table, hot toddies, tequila … gotta have that. Lot of fun.

Fire pits and parties are all part of winter surf culture on the island.

Fire pits and parties are all part of winter surf culture on the island.

People often party atop Dr. Kavanaugh's pickup truck at the beach in the winter.

People often party atop Kavanaugh’s pickup truck at the beach in the winter.

“There was a Christmas a couple of years ago, we were here five, six days [in a row]. It was like going to Aspen for the winter. It was sunny, warm, friends, parties. Amazing, right?”

Hang 10 — degrees

Dr. Kavanaugh regularly braves the elements to catch waves in the winter.

Kavanaugh regularly braves the elements to catch waves in the winter. Dennis A. Clark

Ice chunks are visible on Dr. Kavanaugh's surf boards.

Ice chunks are visible on Kavanaugh’s surfboards. Dennis A. Clark

Finding the gut check to get in the ocean requires more than a tolerance for being soaking wet in the bone-chilling temps, the seasoned surfer said.

“It’s harder because that water is thicker in the winter, so you’re moving slower. …These wetsuits, you’re not flying around,” said Kavanaugh.

“With this cold stuff, you’ve got to be careful.”

That’s coming from a man who “almost died” while surfing 25-foot waves during a July 4 storm, a years ago, that had three others around him “crying and puking.”

Dr. Kavanaugh went in the water last Friday to catch some waves while it was 26 degrees outside in Montauk.

Dr. Kavanaugh went in the water last Friday to catch some waves while it was 26 degrees outside in Montauk. Dennis A. Clark

Dr. Kavanaugh said sometimes there are ice chunks in the water during the winter.

Kavanaugh said that ice chunks sometimes form in the water during the winter months. Dennis A. Clark

Those gutsy enough to enter the frigid waters at Montauk Point do so for reasons beyond bravado.

“It’s harder, but it’s beautiful, and we get better waves in the winter,” Kavanaugh said, claiming he can survive the water for a few hours on a good day with low wind. “The winter coldness, it’s invigorating.

“You can’t get that this summer — it just wakes you up. You get in there, you’re like, ‘Whoa!’ Then later, when you warm up, you get this feeling, yeah, it’s pretty intense.”

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